towards the andes
the overnight journey to arequipa was actually quite painless, with comfy reclining seats just about compensating for the slightly alarming roads lazily winding into the highlands. we arrived and checked into an absolutely gorgeous little posada, an old colonial mansion complete with ankle licking daschund and owner who looked like she wouldn´t be out of place serving coffee to conquistadors. peering over the ariels and the sweaty peruvian builders who crowded into the view from our little balcony were the snowcapped peak of chanchan and the more barren el misti. these two andean edifices are a running visual motif which impose themselves on views all over the city, peaking out from behind churches, super markets and crumbling old buildings at every turn.although i´d heard middling reports of arequipa i really liked this city, spreading out from the central plaza with the hustle and bustle of 21st century reality spreading amongst the regal old buildings of a few hundred years ago. we spent a morning going through a huge monastery previously filled with what, by all accounts, were relatively saucy nuns (the best kind some might say). we went in expecting cramped little cells and desolate barren granite but were in fact confronted with a tranquil, colourful city within a city complete with a church unsurprisingly providing spectacular mountain views, fountains, elegant cloisters and an organist practicing tocatta and fugue with atmosphere enhancing proficiency. arequipa was chaotic enough to be interesting but set with enough unexpected open spaces to provide moments of serenity.
as such, we really enjoyed our all too brief time in the city, one of those glorious places which you recommend without fully being able to articulate why. after another overnight bus we are now in cuzco where we will potter around for a few days acclimatising to altitude before heading up to macchu picchu. expect photos with us resplendent in silly hats and beards (me not vicki) shortly.
posted by bicrom @ 9:18 pm
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